General tips/important info about Tokyo
Airports - Tokyo has two major airports; Haneda and Narita. If you’re staying in central Tokyo try and get a flight into Haneda as it’s about 20-30 minutes into the city with a taxi or Uber. Narita is about an hour by express train to Shibuya Station is kind of a pain to get to and from.

Transit Card (Suica) - will be your MVP asset in Japan. On the “wallet” app on your iPhone click the plus + icon top right, then Transit Card, then Sucia. Top it up with about 2,000-3,000 Japanese Yen using your Apple Pay.
It’s a basic pre-paid transit card. You can tap on and off all public transport, taxis and pay cashless for items at most places such as convenience stores (konbinis as they’re known in Japan) and vending machines. Great card to save on high overseas bank charges for small purchases. FYI you will still need to book a proper ticket for Shinkansen train fares. 

Cash - Japan is a cash society. Always have cash on you. A lot of establishments, especially small, hole in the wall places will only take cash. When you’re in smaller villages - especially after dark - absolutely make sure you have enough cash. Once at a dinner with a large group of friends we didn’t have enough cash to pay for dinner and the only ATM in town was located inside the post office which was closed! 

Tip: You can always find an ATM inside a convenience store.

Tipping - isn’t common in Japan. If you want to tip, make it explicit when you pay the bill otherwise you might find a very honest restaurant worker chasing you down the street to return your change. 

E-Sim/Wifi - I recommend the E-Sim Airalo from the App Store. So much easier than getting a pocket wifi portal and cheaper than using your existing mobile overseas. 

Book in Advance - Where possible book everything in advance to avoid disappointment. Restaurants, tickets to galleries, shows, exhibitions and long train trips (don’t bother with the JR rail pass; it’s cheaper to buy individual tickets where you need to go). I’ll note in the specific recommendations if you have to book. Ask your hotel to book for you if you get stuck.

Trains - Book long haul trips in advance and make sure you get seating otherwise you’ll end up standing in the toilet section for ages with your bags which is no beuno. The ticket machines at the train station can be a bit overwhelming so I always recommend going direct to the ticket counter and booking in person; they’re used to tourists, all speak English and can help with any concerns/questions - especially helping you on where you need to find your platform. As mentioned above don’t bother with JR rail pass, cheaper to book individual trips as you go. 

Opening Hours - Most shops don’t open til 11am, quirkier more niche places even later. Annoyingly most coffee shops also don’t open til much later either. Check google maps for opening hours for everything to be safe. 

Uber - If you’re not fluent in Japanese it’s better to order Ubers as you can enter your exact address into the app and save yourself and the driver a lot of hassle when you get picked up. Most of the time a taxi will rock up anyway as they’re connected to Uber. 

Luup - Japan equivalent of Citibike, Lime Scooters etc. Download the app and you can hire an e-bike or scooter which is often faster or cheaper than the train or taxi to get places within Tokyo.  

Rubbish Bins - Are not commonplace in Japan. Being responsible for your own rubbish (and most importantly recycling) is your burden and something which is taken very seriously. You’re expected to take your waste home and take care of it yourself. Big tourist areas such as Harajuku and Shibuya will have a few bins and if you’re sneaky you can pop into a convenience store (konbini) to dispose of your items - they’re usually hidden near the straws, utensils and coffee cups.

Etiquette - Talking loudly, listening to videos or music without headphones on the train is bad manners. Same goes for eating/drinking on the train unless you’re seated on a long haul train ride with your own tray table. 
Eating outside on the street is also frowned upon. 
It’s customary to take your shoes off  when you enter someone’s home, some restaurants and all temples/shrines. In-door slippers are usually provided. Take note of separate slippers for restrooms. General rule of thumb if you don’t see signage: Tatami mats = take off your shoes, Historial wooden floors = take off your shoes, Someone’s home = take off your shoes.

What to pack (Tokyo specific)
The shoulder seasons of Spring and Autumn are the best weather in Tokyo.
Tokyo is a great city to walk around in so make sure you have comfortable footwear. As mentioned above rubbish bins are scarce so a bag which you can easily carry your trash in til you get back to your hotel to dispose of is also helpful. Some establishments err on the side of dressy or have dress codes (ie no shorts, sandals or athleisure) I will note these on the Restaurant/Bar guide. 

Winter (Fuyu) December 1 - February 28
Winter in Tokyo is one of the best times of the year, the sun is usually shining and the days are crisp but not too bone chillingly cold. Every few years Tokyo might see a few days of snow if you’re lucky. Essential packing items are a warm puffer jacket & thermals (Uniqlo Heat Tech are my go-tos) if you’re unable to get any before you leave they’re in abundance when you land. I usually wear my normal clothes with thermals underneath. If you have a beanie and gloves it can’t hurt to pack as well. 

Spring (Haru) March 1 - May 31
Early spring is still pretty cold and late spring you’ll be cruising around in a t-shirt. Definitely take a warm jacket for the cooler days or evenings. Spring is famously busy in Tokyo due to the Cherry Blossom season, expect to walk around alot in search of the elusive blooms. Hanami (the custom of enjoying the flowers) means a lot of people will take to the parks with blankets to enjoy picnics. FYI shoes off when sitting on the picnic blanket!

Summer (Natsu) June 1 - August 31
The worst time of the year to be in Tokyo, most people try to escape the city if they can. Humidity is high, it rains A LOT and it’s swelteringly hot. Pack breezy, loose fitting clothing like linens and shoes which won’t get ruined if there is downpour. You will be sweating ! Umbrella’s also handy due to the heavy, frequent rain and to protect yourself from the sun. 

Autumn (Aki) September 1 - November 30
Much like spring this is another great time of the year weather wise. September can still get pretty humid so pack light weight clothing, the weather can change quite suddenly in Japan though so if you’re going for a decent stint make sure you cover your bases with some warm options as well. 

Helpful Phrases:
Never once heard a single person say sayonara in all my time in Japan.
The most helpful phrase you’ll learn is ‘daijobudesu’, pronounced ‘die joe boo des’ it’s a pretty broad term but basically means I’m all good thanks / no worries / it’s okay / don’t worry… If someone asks if you want a receipt: “daijobudesu”, would you like a plastic bag for your shopping: “daijobudesu”, sorry I bumped into you: “daijobudesu”, please wait a moment: “daijubudesu”... You get the idea..

Google translate is the best option for most situations but like most foreign countries the effort is really appreciated if you try your best with the local tongue. Who knows you might get a local say back to you ‘Nihongo jozudesu’ which means you speak Japanese well! But it’s also kind of a backhanded sarcastic dig because locals will enthusiastically say it back to you simply for saying Konichiwa 

Here are some other helpful phrases / words: 

*You can piece together some of these to help with ordering a drink for example:

‘Sumimasen, aka wine onegaishimasu’ - Excuse me, red wine please

Konichiwa - Hello

Konbanwa - Good evening

Ohayo - Good morning 

Genkidesu ka - How are you? 

Mata-ne - See you / Bye

Ja-ne - Bye

Daijobudesu - No problem / it’s fine / I’m okay / Don’t mention it / All good / Don’t worry

Arigato - Thank you 

Domo Arigato Gozaimasu - Thank you very much

Sumimasen - sorry / excuse me

Chotto matte - One moment

O kaikei kudasai - May I please pay the bill

Onegaishimasu - Please

Kippu - ticket

Toiretto - toilet

Biru - beer

Wine - wine

Aka - red

Shiro - white 

Mizu - water

Konbini - Convenience Store

Namae wa? - What is your name?

Watashi wa <insert your name>
desu - I am <name>

Izakaya - translates to ‘stay-drink-place’ usually for a traditional Japanese restaurant/bar

Yokocho - means alleyway or backstreets but mostly refers to an alleyway with many bars and restaurants

Ryokan - a traditional Japanese style inn or accommodation

Onsen - baths filled with natural hot spring water, typically located in rural, mountainous regions

Sento - baths filled with regular heated tap water not from a natural source, more common in the cities.

Showa - the period post WWII in Japan during the reign of Emperor Hirohito (1926-1989) during Japan’s insane economic growth, several places in this guide I might refer to as having a ‘Showa era’ aesthetic which is usually a charming mix of Japanese and Western elements which is uniquely distinctive to this era. 

Medical / Emergency / Medications:
Tokyo Medical Centre - The only English friendly doctor’s clinic in Tokyo. Ask for Ivor Cammack he’s British / Australian who was super helpful when we had a few emergencies.

FYI - its hard to get normal painkillers in Japan without a script so bring your paracetamol or ibuprofen from home if you think you’ll need it while you’re away. Same goes for Cold & Flu medicine, cannot recommend this enough especially if you’re heading to the snow and get sick because Japanese over the counter medicine is weak AF. On that note do NOT bring Cold & Flu medicine into Japan which has pseudoephedrine or codeine in it as they’re illegal and you can get into a lot of hot water (ie detained) if you get caught with it at the airport. 

ADHD medications are also banned substances and illegal in Japan and can get you arrested. 

Who to Follow on instagram:
Tokyo Weekender
Lisa Knight
Peter Sayn
Tokyo Dandy
Sabukaru
Sugalenin
For parties:
Sante Visioni
Al Jones
Rainbow Disco Club
Good Company Broadcast Group
Yamarchy
Kikigraphix
Mild Bunch Soundsystem
Move Tokyo

Shit List:
You can’t trust someone who says everything is amazing - so I think it’s important to call out the stuff which should be avoided. Obviously not everything in a city is perfect but loads of these places pop up on heaps of other Must-Do’s in Tokyo.

Gotemba Premium Outlet - Its an absolute pain in the ass to get to. If you have limited time in Tokyo and love shopping don’t waste a whole day coming out here. 

DonQuijote - Its a heaving tourist trap and most of the stuff is junk - if it’s specific things like beauty products or electronics you can go to a million other places where you don’t feel like you’re going to get claustrophobia.

Go Karting - The Go-Karting in costumes is perfect for people who love tourist traps and are missing any sense of self-respect. It’s lame as shit - wouldn’t be caught dead doing it.  

Gonpachi - The Kill Bill restaurant. Terrible. Massive tourist trap. They play hideous Top 40 music super loud and the food sucks. If you have any lists / Tokyo guides sent to you, and they include the Kill Bill restaurant, then you know that guide is shit and whoever sent it to you either hates themselves or doesn’t have any taste, but probably both!

GoldenGai - Around 200 little bars all crammed across 6 narrow alleyways. It’s OK for 1 drink if you’re in the area (go to Albatross, ‘Deathmatch in Hell’ - great name for a bar!,  La Jetée, or Open Book. ) But it’s extremely touristy and quite dorky - and it’s too hard to find the secret good little bars (you need passwords). Even the cool ones that you need passwords for are still kinda boring. Try a night out in Shimokitazawa instead. Or - go to Piano bar & Grandfathers in Shibuya. 

Ahiru - Who has the guts to put one of the best natural wine bars in Tokyo on the shit list? I do! There’s a line 30-40 minutes long before it opens, and then you can never get in. Have tried to go 10 times, never can get in. It’s just not worth it - so don’t plan your day around it.

Shibuya Yokocho - It’s fun to walk through it when you’re walking from Harajuku to Shibuya at night - but the food is bad and the energy is a bit off. Big tourist trap.

Animal Cafes - Sure they look cute as hell, and I’ll admit I have been guilty of going when I first came to Japan 10 years ago but I guarantee you will leave feeling sad and riddled with guilt. Obviously goes without saying that they’re not fun for the poor animals.  

RESTAURANTS, CAFES, BARS, NIGHTCLUBS & NATURAL WINE IN TOKYO

“Anything worth doing, is worth overdoing”

We lived in Tokyo for over 2 and a half years (and now we’re back in Sydney). We try to find places with ‘only in Japan’ energy and we love hunting down the goooood shit. We’ve got 600 restaurants & bars on our google maps list, have been to probably 200 of them, then condensed it down to about 50+ favourites on this guide. We’re massive snobs…. but you can always trust a snob for good recommendations!

Ariigaaattoooooogozzzziiiamaaassssuuuu

Google maps location linked in titles, have noted what requires a booking and approx price per head.

Helpful translations for this list:

“Izakaya”  translates to ‘stay-drink-place’ usually for a traditional Japanese restaurant/bar
“Yokocho”  means alleyway or backstreets but mostly refers to an alleyway with many bars and restaurants

Yaki = Grilled 
Tori = Bird 
Niku = Meat
(Yakitori = grilled chicken or bird, Yakiniku = grilled meats)

Where to eat, drink and go out in Tokyo…
Restaurants
Tonki
Location: Meguro
Style: Katsu pork
Booking required: No
Approx price per person: $20 AUD / $12 USD

We’ve been here 20+ times and just love it. It’s interesting, it’s delicious & simple. All you get is pork katsu, cabbage and a slice of tomato. That’s all they serve! Entertaining to watch them make it. All the staff are in white uniforms with big white hats. Minimalist wood interior. Good for dining with 1-3 people - and not much conversation. Don’t sit upstairs, downstairs at the kitchen counter is the only place to be.  

Narukiyo’s Izakaya
Location: Shibuya
Style: Izakaya
Booking required: Yes - call about 3-7 days before you intend to go. 
Approx price per person: $80 AUD / $50 USD

Narukiyo, the owner & chef, is a cheeky little devil. There’s dicks all over the restaurant and in the restaurant's logo. There’s an abstract painting on the wall of a woman shitting herself.  He often wears a head towel that says “FUCK OFF” all over it and a pin on his jacket that says  “I love sex!” Iconic. Food is incredible. The menu is hand written in Japanese on a huge paper scroll, so ask the waiter what they recommend  (“osusume daijoubu” = what you recommend is all good). You want a seat at the kitchen counter so you can watch Narukiyo cook. Narukiyo is also DIALLED into the fashion scene in Japan (does the food for Yohji Yamamoto etc) and it's not unusual to see celebs like Sofia Cappola or Dua Lipa here from time to time. Standard order is Sashimi, Asparagus, Wagyu, Karaage, Oysters, Crumbed Tuna (but we don’t like fish that much - so there’s other fish options). The Sake comes in chilled bamboo jugs. Also cool that there's a super rare ‘Officine de Buly’ soap dispenser in the bathroom that Ramdane designed. Our favourite restaurant in Tokyo. Need to book a table at least a week out by calling.

Kaikaya By The Sea
Location: Shibuya
Style: Izakaya
Booking required: Yes
Approx price per person: $80 AUD / $50 USD

Cool Izakaya with good energy/vibe in Shibuya. Seafood is delicious and interior is fun. Highly recommend it. It’s on every list, and it’s very touristy, but it’s actually just good quality, good value and cool - you can’t fault it. Can book online.

Beppinsyan
Location: Shinjuku
Style: Small plates
Booking required: Yes
Approx price per person: $80 AUD / $50 USD

This was recommended to us by a friend who’s an elite fancy chef in Tokyo. It’s awesome - and the only restaurant on this list in Shinjuku. Delicious & interesting Japanese small plate food (and the actual ceramic plates are all unique and beautiful). Great value for what you get. It’s relatively cheap, but feels luxurious. They’ve got knockoff Zalto wine glasses (People who know us, know we have a soft spot for those monster Zalto burgundy wine glasses, 960mls baby!), a few decent orange wines, and fresh lemon sours. Staff are great & shout a lot - which we love.. Good for 2-4 people. Interior is a little janky, the lighting is too bright - but everything else is great - good for a weeknight dinner. 

Nakame No Teppen Honten
Location: Meguro
Style: Izakaya
Booking required: Yes
Approx price per person: $60 AUD / $40 USD

A traditional izakaya with good energy! The food isn’t amazing - but it’s got a great vibe. They do a traditional Shinto blessing of fish (traditionally to bless the first catch of the season)  where they scorch it in big flames, turn off all the lights,  sing a song and bang a little drum (this happens around 7pm most nights). Make everything a ceremony!

Tatemichiya
Location: Daikanyama
Style: Izakaya
Booking required: Yes
Approx price per person: $50 AUD / $30 USD

Another cool little Izakaya - close to Nakameguro & Daikanyama. Food not as good but still has an authentic vibe. Better for a beer & a few snacks than full dinner. 

Tofu Cuisine Sorano
Location: Shibuya
Style: Traditional Japanese
Booking required: Yes
Approx price per person: $70 AUD / $45 USD

Secluded traditional style wooden building on the outskirts of bustling Shibuya, as the title would suggest they specialise in tofu dishes which generally can be pretty bland but in this case were on another level. Every other non-tofu dish we tried was also amazing. 

Yasubei of Ebisu
Location: Ebisu
Style: Gyoza dumplings & small plates
Booking required: No
Approx price per person: $20 AUD / $13 USD

The best fried gyoza we've ever had. Almost life-changing gyoza. Super thin, yet super crunchy. They are 1000 times better than any gyoza we've had. We’ve been here probably 30+ times.  It’s close to Ebisu Yokocho, & Winestand Waltz (natties) - which are two good options for a drink beforehand (or after). Order the potato salad, cucumber salad and heaps of the fried gyoza. Dip them in a 50/50 mix of vinegar & soy sauce for maximum enjoyment. Don’t need a booking which is great, might have to line up for 5-20 mins but 100% worth the wait. If I was on death row, I would choose my final meal from Yasubei. 

Ebisu Yokocho
Location: Ebisu
Style: Japanese night market
Booking required: No
Approx price per person: $20 AUD / $13 USD

Yokocho means lots of little food joints in a row. This place has about 20 street food stalls. It’s got a high energy vibe at night, lots of shouting. Turns out it is a popular place for single people to meet each other or meet for tinder dates. We like the Chinese place - they do this tomato slice entré that’s delicious. But watch out: some of the places only serve tongue or tripe.There’s also a wine place on the corner deep into the yokocho that has delicious orange wine & natties. Good for groups (max 6-7). Good to get pissed at. Food isn’t life-changing - but its a great place to start up conversations with locals. If you’re in Shinjuku, Omoide Yokocho is a similar option but not as good. 

Apollo
Location: Ginza
Style: Australian/Greek
Booking required: Yes
Approx price per person: $70 AUD / $45 USD

Franchised version of the original Apollo in Sydney, good honest Greek food with a beautiful view in the heart of Ginza. One of the few places you can park up for a long lunch or dinner and keep ordering wine where you don’t feel like you’re getting bum rushed out of there. Also good for larger groups which can be difficult in Tokyo.

Freeman Shokudo
Location: Nishara / Shibuya
Style: American BBQ
Booking required: No
Approx price per person: $20 AUD / $15 USD

Small place (12 seater). Very good pastrami sandwich & bbq ribs, plus Israeli salad, hummus and jerk chicken. Legit American. Also serve natties and interesting beers. Owner’s name is Jeremy - a really nice guy from Brooklyn. Has a cool Tadanori Yokoo poster on the wall. Next door is a small bar called Sanita - great for a drink after dinner.. If you go for lunch, there’s a good coffee shop nearby called Peddlers.

ShabuShabu Yamawarau
Location: Omotesando
Style: Shabu shabu (hot pot meat & veg)
Booking required: Yes but usually easily to get into relatively last minute
Approx price per person: $60 AUD / $40 USD

Shabu shabu bar where you get your own pot of broth, choose your meat (beef or pork of varying grades) hot tip the most expensive cuts taste no different to the cheaper ones so save your yen. Then you add your veg, noodles and mix with ponzu and miso sauces. Always feel like I’ve had a very hearty, healthy meal after dining here. 

Ichiran
Location: all over Tokyo, Shibuya location linked
Style: Ramen
Booking required: No
Approx price per person: $10 AUD / $7 USD

Part of a chain - Ichiran can be a controversial suggestion, you either love it or don’t vibe with it - we love it!
You order through a vending machine, then sit in a little 1 person booth (you can slide the doors back to make a 2 seater) and virtually no human contact once inside.  Good for max 3 people or  if you’re hammered at 3am. Their main one is close to Shibuya station, but there’s also a less busy second location in Shibuya (200m away). It’s super touristy - but quick & easy. Bonus points if you walk out of here and the sun has started to come up - good times. 

Kurobuta Tonkotsu Ramen Ginza Koushi
Location: Ginza
Style: Ramen
Booking required: No
Approx price per person: $15 AUD / $10 USD

We found this place by accident on account of the other ramen place next door being on loads of lists (but virtually impossible to get into unless you want to line up for over an hour) turns out this joint next door - where there is never a line - is absolutely elite and one of the best pork ramens we’ve ever had. Great spot to pop into quickly after a big shopping day in Ginza, its a few streets back from Dover St Market. Good for max 3 people, its not very big. 

Iruca 
Location: Roppongi
Style: Ramen
Booking required: No
Approx price per person: $15 AUD / $10 USD

Interesting twist on ramen (they use truffle), slightly more elevated than other places. Worth the 30 min wait in line. 

Karashibi Kikando
Location: Kanda (near Ginza)
Style: Ramen
Booking required: No
Approx price per person: $15 AUD / $10 USD

Themed with Japanese devils and demons. We love the demon masks that line the wall and the samurai bing bong soundscapes they play on the speakers. Has a bit of character. An hour+ wait time. Only good for max 4 people. 

Kushiwakamaru
Location: Meguro
Style: Yakitori
Booking required: No
Approx price per person: $20 AUD / $13 USD

Authentic & energetic vibe in Nakameguro. Good with a group of 4. You put your name on a piece of paper to wait. Not life changing food, but good for a quick & easy dinner without a reservation. 

Toriyoshi
Location: Nishiazabu
Style: Yakitori
Booking required: Yes or can line up
Approx price per person: $60 AUD / $40 USD

Another Yakitori joint. More of a minimalist wood interior. Delicious food..  Need to book - waiting in line takes ages. They usually aren’t great with phone bookings so get your hotel to help if needed. There are 2-3 around Tokyo (another one in Nakameguro that we haven’t been to).

Jomon
Location: Roppongi or Shibuya
Style: Yakiniku
Booking required: Yes
Approx price per person: $60 AUD / $40 USD

Various meat and veg skewers but with everything wrapped in bacon. Delicious. Sounds a bit rank but it’s actually elevated. A bunch of people have this as one of their favourite places in Tokyo. One location in Shibuya, one in Roppongi - and a sister venue in NishiAzabu. The Shibuya one is better for larger groups. It’s low-mid range in terms of fanciness.

Censu
Location: Jingumae
Style: Elevated izakaya
Booking required: Yes
Approx price per person: $100 AUD / $65 USD

Just opened in Oct 2023 and its really good - wouldn’t normally put small modern plate joints on this list because you can get that in any other country and we have tried  to keep this list to an  ‘only in Tokyo’ vibe - but Censu is great. A few dishes are mind blowing (like the caramelised honey corn). Need a booking but its still quite new and unknown so it's not too hard to get into (yet).

Sowado
Location: Hiroo / Shibuya
Style: Fancy modern izakaya
Booking required: Yes
Approx price per person: $100 AUD / $70 USD

Great modern design of the kitchen & restaurant, it’s intimate and high end. Good for 2-3 people or for a fancy date night. Serves natural wine.. There’s a little 5 seat bar at the entrance that’s worth having a post-dinner drink at (or pre-dinner). Book in advance online by a week or two. 

Pizza

There’s this story that a Japanese guy went to Italy in the ‘60s to learn about pizza because he was obsessed. Got there, they were super intolerant towards him and wouldn't teach him so he came back to Tokyo and taught himself. Then spent the next 40 years obsessing - making pizza better than any pizza in Italy.  He then taught a bunch of his staff who then went on to start their own pizza places. They are all great, hard to choose which one is the best.

PST 
Location: Roppongi
Style: Pizza
Booking required: Yes
Approx price per person: $40 AUD / $25 USD

Good for groups of 2-6 people. After 2.5 years this is probably where we came back to the most, so if we had to choose a favourite it would be PST.

Serinkan
Location: Kamimeguro
Style: Pizza / Steampunk / Beatles themed
Booking required: No
Approx price per person: $20 AUD / $15 USD

In Nakameguro (good for groups of 1-4 people) many pizza lovers debate that the best pizza is Serinkan or Savoy. V highly regarded. 

Savoy
Location: Azabujuban
Style: Italian / Pizza
Booking required: Yes but can also walk in / wait
Approx price per person: $30 AUD / $20 USD

In Azabujuban (new location has more space and does other small plates, like a delicious beef stew)

Kevelos
Location: Harajuku
Style: Pizza
Booking required: No
Approx price per person: $15 AUD / $10 USD 

Casual little place in Harajuku we also grew very fond of, they play Jim Jarmusch’s Coffee & Cigarettes on repeat and it has a cute little alfresco dining area outside. Good for groups of 2-6 people.

Pizza Bar on the 38th
Location: Nihonbashi
Style: Fancy Pizza Bar
Booking required: Yes
Approx price per person: $100 AUD / $65 USD

On the 38th floor of the Mandarin Oriental Hotel (which has a gorgeous lobby btw) meant to be 16th best pizza in the world - need to book at least 2 weeks ahead, good for 2-4 people - the whole bar only seats 8 people. Bit of boring vibe but the pizza is yum.

Pizza 4P’s 
Location: Azabudai Hills
Style: Pizza/Italian farm to table
Booking required: Yes
Approx price per person: $60 AUD / $40 USD

This is a brand new, semi fancy pizza / Italian restaurant which is farm to table with all local ingredients in the new Azabudai Hills complex. 

We think PST pizza tastes better but the vibe and backstory of Pizza 4P’s is more elevated and interesting so it’s worth checking out (especially if you do the TeamLabs Borderless which is in the same building)
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Tonki in Meguro
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Walking into Kaikaya by The Sea
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Truffle flavoured ramen at Iruca
CAFES / COFFEE
Japan isn’t known for its coffee... And on top of that, they all open at 11am! You would think after 2 years of devastating covid impact on the restaurant business - that maybe at least one coffee shop would come up with the genius idea of opening a bit earlier (when people actually drink coffee) But NOPE. 11am to 8pm.
The below are decent though. Onibus is the best. 

Chatei Hatou in Shibuya (like a step back in time to the 60s. Get the cakes too). 

Onibus in Nakameguro (tiny, and outdoor)

Sidewalk Stand in Nakameguro

Kofee Mameya in Harajuku, opens at 10am - v expensive and v long wait time. Probably the most obsessive people about coffee we’ve ever experienced.

Fuglen in Yoyogi, good for a coffee or later for a cocktail. Chic Scandi wooden design.

Blue Bottle Cafe all over Tokyo, can get avocado on toast and cute pastries as well.
BARS / CLUBS / NIGHTLIFE
The below is in order of hecticness. Chill at the top, concrete bunker big techno at the bottom.
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Coffee and/or cocktails at Scandi chic Fuglen
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Martini at the New York Bar (famously featured in Lost in Translation)
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Always a good time at our favourite bar/dance club: Aoyama Tunnel Red Bar
Fuglen
Location: Yoyogi / Shibuya
Vibe: Chilled

Mentioned above for coffee, good cocktails day or night as well.

Nishiazabu Soco
Location: Nishiazabu
Vibe: Hidden / chilled

Brutalist small bar with extreme attention to detail on cocktails (ice comes in a wooden box, measure everything to the ml, it’s insane). Same owner as Vent (the big minimalist techno club). They are obsessive. Fits about 8 people, and generally it’s always empty. But it’s super cool - has a Rick Owensy vibe. 

Bar Martha
Location: Ebisu
Vibe: Quiet / Chilled

Records, cocktails and complimentary nuts. If you talk too loud they will tell you off (multiple times) - so don’t come here if you’re getting loose. Close to Yasubei of Ebisu (Gyoza) and Ebisu Yokocho (lively alleyway street food). 

Generally, fancy cocktail bars bore us to death: but if you love Martha then look up Gen Yamamoto, SG club, Trench, Ben Fiddich. 

Piano Bar
Location: Shibuya
Vibe: Tiny / chilled

Very small bar with an epic over the top interior (red velvet, chandeliers, eccentric decorations). Downstairs is usually full, but there’s room for about 6 people upstairs. Owned by Hayao Matsumura (owner of vintage store Nude Trump mentioned in the shopping guide). Around the corner from Grandfather’s. Good for 1 or 2 drinks if you’re going past. 

Grandfather’s
Location: Shibuya
Vibe: Chilled / casual

Quiet old-school little bar for drinking & talking, can smoke inside. Good place to start the night. Has good records playing mostly yacht rock, can request songs by writing on a piece of paper if you ask the bartender nicely. Hard to find. Need to walk down a passage then go downstairs. 

Trunk Hotel Cat Street
Location: Jingumae
Vibe: Cool / casual

One of the coolest boutique hotels in Tokyo. The lobby bar is great for a quick drink and to bump into people. Beautiful courtyard area. Never need a reservation, usually interesting people there. (The restaurant is shit and overpriced). Also a good pit stop for a drink between shopping expeditions as it's right in the heart of the Harajuku / Jingumae / Omotesando shopping area.

The Top (Aoyama Grand Hotel)
Location: Aoyama
Vibe: Rooftop / semi dressy

There’s a luxe rooftop at  Aoyama Grand hotel. They recently added heaps of trees & palms, it’s one of the only rooftop bars near Harajuku that I’ve found (I originally found it by using google earth satellite and zooming in to  look for rooftop bars!), drinks are a little expensive but the vibe is cool and there is a great view.

Bellovisto
Location: Shibuya
Vibe: Old school chic

This is a pro-tip: The top of Cerulean Tower Hotel in Shibuya  has a classic fancy hotel bar - and  it’s got the best views of Shibuya at night. Rarely need to book which is a plus. Level 40.  Fun fact: There’s a few Andy Warhol Mick Jagger painting on the wall - one similar recently sold at auction for $250k. Its the next best option til the New York Bar (Lost in Translation bar) reopens after its refurbishment. 

New York Bar 
Location: Shinjuku
Vibe: Dressy, elevated, iconic
Famously the bar from Lost in Translation. Top level of the Park Hyatt hotel in Shinjuku. Currently closed til October 2025 for major refurbishments. Live jazz often playing (of which there is a charge to your bill if it’s on while you’re there), rather expensive but worth it for a martini, the music and the view. Dressy.

Beat Cafe
Location: Shibuya
Vibe: Dive Bar

Small shitty dive bar in Shibuya. But it’s the shittiness that makes it amazing. Kato-man, who runs it, loves it when you request songs. 

Record Bar Analog
Location: Dogenzaka / Shibuya
Vibe: Cool record bar

You can choose your own vinyl from the selection and give it to the DJ as a song request. Kinda cool. The issue is the staff are quite strict - so not good if you’re getting wild.. Bonus: Keep going upstairs and there’s a ladder where you can get up onto the rooftop really easily. You’ll probably be arrested but yolo.

Aoyama Tunnel/Red Bar
Location: Aoyama
Vibe: Small dance club / bar

We absolutely love this place.. Disco downstairs, house music upstairs. 80 pax over two levels, upstairs has a fun interior with lots of mirrors and red. Open till 7am, gets busy at midnight, then packed at 1am - but great for a chilled drink early on (9-11pm). There’s also venues above that you get in from the other side of the building that have a shitter interior, but still fun. Probably our favourite bar in Tokyo - we go every fortnight or so. Check for when ‘Santeria’ is on -  it’s the best monthly party there on a Saturday. Follow @santevisioni on instagram for more info.

Mitsuki
Location: Shibuya
Vibe: Small dance club

Small 80 person d-floor that put on cool DJ’s. Need to check their instagram to see who is playing. Lion, Enter & Mitsuki are all in Shibuya, similar vibe - but depend on what event is on.

Womb
Location: Shibuya
Vibe: Nightclub

Big club - techno. Go there after midnight. Fits about 1,000 people. More for special DJ’s touring, rather than just going on a random night.

Hven
Location: Meguro
Vibe: Techno club

Just opened a couple of weeks ago (as of 19 March 2024). Not many people know about it, it gives off a big techno vibe. But it’s brutalist and has interesting lighting.

Vent
Location: Aoyama
Vibe: Techno club

Brutalist. Minimal. Concrete. Small with a giant tree in the middle. No phones allowed. Perfect for techno. You go to listen to music, not to chat. Sound system is amazing. Reminds me of the interior of Berghain but way smaller and less gnarly. It’s a great example of Japanese obsession to detail.
NATURAL WINE
List of our favourite places to buy or drink natties. Some serve food.

Le Cabaret
Location: outskirts of Shibuya
Vibe: Parisian bistro

Small plates. Great wine selection. Requires a booking. Interior like a Parisian bistro with alfresco seating out the front.

Studio Mule
Location: Shibuya
Vibe: Elevated / Modern

Small natty bar on the edge of Shibuya. Epic wine list. Owner runs a record label and sometimes has his mame shiba (miniature shiba inu) dog which he lets sit on the counter. Probably our favourite wine bar at the moment. 

No. 501
Location: Aoyama
Vibe: Wine shop / Small Bar 

It’s a wineshop at the front, but there’s a tiny little bar through the door in the back. Has Aussie natties - food isn’t amazing, but ok for a snack. 

La Pioche
Location: Nihonbashi
Vibe: French / Japanese 

Small wine bar. Huge selection of natties (apparently over 1000). A little far away (10 mins from Ginza). Requires a booking (you can call on the day and should be ok). Food is french and good.

Ahiru
Location: Shibuya
Vibe: Small, standing

Is on all the best lists for natural wine bars in Japan - its tiny and impossible to get in. So don’t bother. 

Bunon 
Location: Nishiazabu
Vibe: Izakaya style

One of the OG natty joints in Tokyo. Small Japanese style dishes like you’d find in an izakaya, cute little wooden lodge style building.

Winestand Waltz
Location: Ebisu
Vibe: Small, standing

Tiny spot, with only a couple wines on rotation each night.  Doesn’t have food, but it’s close to Ebisu Yokocho or Yasubei of Ebisu (for Gyoza). Don’t need a booking, can just rock up. 

Aoyama Konishi
Location: Minami Aoayama
Vibe: Bottleshop

Really good natty wine shop, super close to our house. We often say stuff like “apricot, plum, funky, georgian, orange wine” - and he suggests something great. He takes you into the cool room one set of customers at a time. Lots of Aussie wines. Recognised as one of the best natty wine shops in Tokyo. Check opening hours / days before making a trip here, hes open at odd times. Don’t be offended if he makes you put on a mask to come into the store or hands you one - his elderly mum works behind the till and I think he does it for her (sometimes not always).